by "Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever" (rustanddust)
Published 02/04/2017 at 11:38
by "Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever" (rustanddust)
Published 02/04/2017 at 11:38
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So my mother just called me, my parents 2015 Passat decided to not receive input from either remote at the grocery store today. Seems no one ever bothered to show them how to remove the lock cylinder cap when this happens. I explained to her how to pop the cap off and use the key blade to unlock the door. They started it up, drove home, and the keyless system has worked fine since.
Any VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda (I’m assuming the key/remote system is fairly similar across the board) owners run into this before? I run into it all the time at work (body shop), systems need to be reset after battery removal/component replacement in doors. Speaking of which, I wish my parents had remembered I’ve spent 20 years doing this before my cardiac patient dad trudged 2 miles home in 28F weather.
I just found it odd that the system decided to say “nope” randomly in the grocery store parking lot. Remote receiver/control module getting ready to fail?
"bob and john" (bobandjohn)
02/04/2017 at 11:41, STARS: 0
Key battery going?
"Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever" (rustanddust)
02/04/2017 at 11:44, STARS: 0
Don’t think so, I asked if there was a small red lamp that illuminated when they hit a button. They owned a B5.5 Passat before this one, which had that on the switchblade key. Mom didn’t really answer, I was being passed back and forth between her and dad.
Dad walked home and picked up the spare key, which should have a solid battery. It sits in a drawer and is probably less than two years old. Both keys have worked numerous times since, as well.
"Probenja" (probenja)
02/04/2017 at 11:52, STARS: 0
My mom’s Nissan has done this but only with the engine start button, it’s usually on places with high interferences, maybe it’s an area with many antennas? But the key fob has always worked to open the doors.
"Twingo Tamer - About to descend into project car hell." (oppisitelock)
02/04/2017 at 12:00, STARS: 1
My Twingo remote nopes out sometimes. Only fails to lock though, it will always unlock from the remote, so sometimes have to lock it manually. It’s French so I just assume it’s normal and ignore it.
"Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever" (rustanddust)
02/04/2017 at 12:05, STARS: 0
Not alot of antennas around, and they’ve been driving that car there every other week for a year and a half. I’d have thought it would’ve shown up before now if it were a broadcast interference issue.
"Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever" (rustanddust)
02/04/2017 at 12:09, STARS: 1
LOL, I reminded my mom that it’s German, it will either function flawlessly, or not at all.
They lost lock, unlock, and trunk release. I didn’t ask them to test panic, as my dad’s head would’ve exploded with stress at a blaring horn in a crowded grocery store parking lot.
"Tazio, Count Fouroff" (tazio0625)
02/04/2017 at 12:16, STARS: 0
Good move. If the thing was fritzing, who knows; it might’ve activated — and then failed to de-activate — panic. Lol awkward >Hello, parental disapproval!<
"AMGtech - now with more recalls!" (amgtech)
02/04/2017 at 12:30, STARS: 2
Did they try a second key before manually unlocking?
Has the key been subjected to moisture at any point?
Do they carry the key in a pocket where it may be subjected to static electricity? Sometimes static electricity can cause a remote key to “freeze” temporarily. The general recommendation is to carry the key in place that is less susceptible to static (in the pocket of clothes made from a different material, or in a purse; this may take some experimentation to see what works) or put a cover on the remote, silicone and leather seen to work well.
"Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever" (rustanddust)
02/04/2017 at 12:40, STARS: 0
Dad hoofed it home, nabbed the 2nd key that lives in a kitchen drawer, and drove back to test that one. No dice.
At home, the main key is on a wall rack. Mom carries it in her purse when out solo. Dad carries in pants pocket when he has the VW, or they’re together.
Static electricity is the most logical explanation I’ve heard. I’ve been getting zapped exiting my car after driving to and from work this week. Then again, I got bit by a failing coil wire this week, I may still be discharging. Its not out of the question dad had the key in the hand he shut the door with when exiting at the store.
"AMGtech - now with more recalls!" (amgtech)
02/04/2017 at 13:05, STARS: 2
The likelihood of static affecting two keys at the same time is unlikely. Possible of course, but unlikely. Mercedes actually issued a bulletin for the static problem because techs were replacing keys left and right but the problem would come right back since the keys themselves were never the issue. It was usually people who wore certain fabrics and carried their keys in their pockets.
It’s possible it was just a glitch, or that the car interpreted some external signal as a lock/unlock attempt and affected the rolling code, thus creating a rolling code mismatch with the actual keys. That would explain why it’s been working ever since the blade was used because that would resynchronize the codes. I don’t know how advanced VW’s key system is so I don’t know how possible this is. But some systems are very susceptible to it.
"Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever" (rustanddust)
02/04/2017 at 13:18, STARS: 2
True, with both keys being inoperative, and all but 100% confirmation of good battery in both keys, it has to be something with the module. It’s pretty common for me at work to have to pull batteries, unplug and replug one touch handles, manually lock and unlock with key blade, etc to reset various manufacturers systems after collision repair R&Is and component replacements. I told them it should be fine now that it’s been reset.
Just wished they’d called me before sending dad on a hike, lol.
"pip bip - choose Corrour" (hhgttg69)
02/05/2017 at 05:26, STARS: 0
remote battery starting to fail perhaps?