Great. An evap leak.

Kinja'd!!! by "cbell04" (cbell04)
Published 01/22/2017 at 19:53

No Tags
STARS: 0


Throwing both small and “gross” leak codes (08 grand caravan 4.0 v6). I hate battling evap leaks. Checked the gas cap and it looks good. Going to do some more investigating this week. Any suggestions are welcome.

Kinja'd!!!

Kinja'd!!!


Replies (17)

Kinja'd!!! "Seat Safety Switch" (seat-safety-switch)
01/22/2017 at 20:02, STARS: 1

It’s probably the hoses.

Kinja'd!!! "gogmorgo - rowing gears in a Grand Cherokee" (gogmorgo)
01/22/2017 at 20:03, STARS: 1

If not the gas cap, it’s likely in the gas tank vent lines. A common problem with vehicles out here is gravel road dust will clog the tank vents, which causes pressure to build up in the tank and the evap system when you fill up, leading to either having to trickle gas in or blowing out the purge solenoid/filter. Modern trucks, GM’s in particular, are particularly bad because all that stuff gets stashed under the bed where ALL the dust and road grime accumulates, plugging filters, popping lines, and jamming solenoids. At one work place, an ex GM-dealer mechanic had us using heater hose and zip ties to relocate the vent and filter to under the hood.

Kinja'd!!! "cbell04" (cbell04)
01/22/2017 at 20:04, STARS: 0

Kinja'd!!!

Kinja'd!!! "Honeybunchesofgoats" (honeybunche0fgoats)
01/22/2017 at 20:06, STARS: 1

My Jag has had a small evap leak for the two years that I’ve owned it. New gas cap did nothing. I’ve come to accept it as a matter of course that I clear the CEL once a week.

Somehow I miraculously made it through inspection once, but it’s up for another in December, and I don’t want to take my chances, so starting in the Spring I’m going to ask my Jag mechanic to start replacing the likely suspects in order of ascending cost.

Kinja'd!!! "cbell04" (cbell04)
01/22/2017 at 20:19, STARS: 0

Hum I’ll have to research this to better understand it. I thought that the code was a response to a lack of pressure but your saying to much pressure could also cause it?

Kinja'd!!! "cbell04" (cbell04)
01/22/2017 at 20:21, STARS: 1

I’ve had some of the small leak errors too. I typically can reset it and get 100 miles or so before it trips depending on weather. Maybe each state is different but in NC and NY where I’ve done this anything over 50 miles after the code reset passes inspection. Good luck!

Kinja'd!!! "Takuro Spirit" (takurospirit)
01/22/2017 at 20:25, STARS: 0

Probably the ESIM. Evaporative System Integrity Module. I sell them like hotcakes at work (FCA dealer)

Kinja'd!!! "cbell04" (cbell04)
01/22/2017 at 20:31, STARS: 0

Is that also the evap Canister? I already swapped it with a good unit from another van and the fault continued with the affected and did not occur on the known good. It may be something different but I think its the same. Typically located attached to the fire wall under the hood?

Kinja'd!!! "OPPOsaurus WRX" (opposaurus)
01/22/2017 at 20:32, STARS: 0

http://oppositelock.kinja.com/persistent-little-shit-1791463443

Kinja'd!!! "cbell04" (cbell04)
01/22/2017 at 20:32, STARS: 1

sorry just googled thanks for the lead looking into it now

Kinja'd!!! "Honeybunchesofgoats" (honeybunche0fgoats)
01/22/2017 at 20:34, STARS: 0

I’ve noticed the weather thing as well, it seems less likely to trip in the winter.

With my old Jag, it’s kind of strange. There’s a code that runs after diagnostics have been performed, so after you clear a code, you have to drive for a long time and satisfy different conditions to get the car to run the test diagnostic and set the code. There have been times when I’ve gone to reset the code a week later and the system still hasn’t run all of the diagnostics. Very rarely the code will reset without throwing up the evap leak, but it’ll usually happen soon after.

Kinja'd!!! "cbell04" (cbell04)
01/22/2017 at 20:39, STARS: 1

I guess the weather thing is confirmed. Found this specific to my van but sure its similar on other vehicles.

“After the vehicle is started, the engine coolant temperature must be within 50° F (10° C) of the ambient temperature to indicate a cold startThe fuel level must be between 12-88 percentThe engine must be in closed loopManifold vacuum must be greater than a minimum specified valueAmbient temperature must be between 39-98° F (4-37° C) and the elevation level must be below 8,500 feet (2,591 meters).”

Kinja'd!!! "wiffleballtony" (wiffleballtony)
01/22/2017 at 20:44, STARS: 1

I recommend Pepto

Kinja'd!!! "Honeybunchesofgoats" (honeybunche0fgoats)
01/22/2017 at 20:44, STARS: 0

In my case, it’s a bit more psychotic, because old British car:

1. Cold Start To qualify as a “cold start” the engine coolant temperature must be below 0°C and within 6°C of ambient air temperature. Don’t leave the ignition key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic test may not run.

2. Idle The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner and heated rear screen ON. The heavier electrical load the better as this will test the O2 Heater, Passive Air, Purge “No Flow”, Misfire and (if closed loop is achieved) Fuel Trim.

3. Accelerate Turn off the AC and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4. Maintain Steady Speed Maintain a steady speed of 55mph for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5. Decelerate Lift off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift gear selector or touch the brakes. It’s important to let the vehicle coast, gradually slowing down to 20 mph. During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6. Accelerate Accelerate at 3/4 throttle to 55-60mph. This will perform the same diagnostics as in stage 3 above.

7. Maintain Steady Speed Maintain a steady speed of 55mph for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in stage 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed.

8. Decelerate This performs the same diagnostics as in stage 5. Again, don’t shift the gear selector or touch the brakes.

If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it can take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

Kinja'd!!! "cbell04" (cbell04)
01/22/2017 at 20:56, STARS: 0

Geez! Some folks just like things to be difficult. That’s pretty nuts although I’m sure most our modernish cars checking some of those same boxes. Sometimes I find it difficult to believe cars work at all with all that’s going on in them.

Kinja'd!!! "cbell04" (cbell04)
01/22/2017 at 20:58, STARS: 0

Tums for cars would be nice rather than dealing with this.

Kinja'd!!! "dtg11 - is probably on an adventure with Clifford" (dtg11)
01/23/2017 at 11:02, STARS: 0

Hey I’ve got that app too