by "PowderHound" (PowderHound)
Published 01/20/2017 at 22:58
by "PowderHound" (PowderHound)
Published 01/20/2017 at 22:58
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STARS: 1
Had another ground to put in on the kit by the throttle body which required removing the intercooler so why not change out the pitch stop while I’m in there. Already have the transmission mount that will be going in... Tomorrow? I also got motor mounts to beef things up because, oh why not. Not sure when I will get to those though. I’m easily sucked in to wormholes.
I have another ground to install on an alternator bolt which would make it easy to put in an oil temp gauge. And I wonder why I can’t save money
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
01/20/2017 at 23:04, STARS: 0
Best of luck with the Group N stuff, I wasn’t thrilled with the harshness it added but some people might dig it.
"PowderHound" (PowderHound)
01/20/2017 at 23:10, STARS: 0
I’m pretty happy so far with the firmer bushings I have put on and had the trans mount on before it felt great but at high revs when the engine was shifting back the exhaust hit the crossmember the pitch stop should fix that
"Takuro Spirit" (takurospirit)
01/21/2017 at 17:03, STARS: 0
I had group-N for my pitch stop and trans mount. It wasn’t TOO bad, but the increased engine noise due to the pitch stop was off-putting until I got used to it.
The added STi muffler, Borla header/high flow cat/2.5" midpipe made the noise barely noticeable later on anyways...
"Autofixation" (Autofixation)
01/21/2017 at 23:58, STARS: 0
I have Group N on the engine, pitch stop, and trans. It doesn’t bother me. Shifting is much smoother because of less movement. It is a little ouder in the car, but it was to be expected. I also have the positive shift kit polyurethane bushings in the transmission subframe. I now need to put in a new driveshaft to finally get rid of the clunking.
"Autofixation" (Autofixation)
01/22/2017 at 00:00, STARS: 0
I also have a deafening rear wheel bearing that is going to fail soon..... It tends to drown out the additional engine/trans noise.
"uofime-2" (uofime-2)
01/23/2017 at 10:24, STARS: 0
Might think about bushing inserts for the rear diff mount, that’s where a lot of people’s clunks are. If you want to go all the way add insert to the rear subframe too. I’m a big fan of doing the whole lot of those, one of those weird intangible thing where the car just feels better and faster despite the fact that it shouldn’t.
though if your u-joints are work out fixing that is probably more important
grounded to the ground, connected, all that hyperbole
"Autofixation" (Autofixation)
01/24/2017 at 02:19, STARS: 0
I replaced the bushings in the rear subframe. Pressed in some whiteline ones, did the outriggers too. Still clunking. The only thing left to be replaced in the drivetrain is the center support bearing and the u joints.
"uofime-2" (uofime-2)
01/24/2017 at 13:55, STARS: 0
wow autocorrect murdered my last post...
Anyway yea, u-joints don’t last forever, but at least they’re cheap-ish
"Autofixation" (Autofixation)
01/24/2017 at 20:05, STARS: 0
Non- serviceable on Subarus.... They are staked in to the yokes. Technically they are, if you put a whole lot of work into them and modify the yokes. Dormant sells a complete driveshaft with serviceable u joints and a center support bearing for around $350.
"uofime-2" (uofime-2)
01/25/2017 at 12:42, STARS: 0
crap, did not realize that