by "Alfalfa" (alfalfa-romeo)
Published 01/20/2017 at 09:39
by "Alfalfa" (alfalfa-romeo)
Published 01/20/2017 at 09:39
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STARS: 0
What do you use/recommend? Looking to get properly set up for Bronco revival.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
01/20/2017 at 09:45, STARS: 3
General recommendation: do NOT get a three-caster one. Get one with two casters under the engine end/two legs. We had a three caster one someone gave us and it was so awful I hacked it up and made it a four-caster - as well as upgrading the size of the turning casters. Which brings me to my next point: make sure the casters are big enough.
"crowmolly" (crowmolly)
01/20/2017 at 09:45, STARS: 4
Anything but this style in my opinion. You can get fancy with drip pans and geared heads but for the most part as long as it’s stable it’s good. Just a Ford smallblock, right?
"MonkeePuzzle" (monkeypuzzle)
01/20/2017 at 09:45, STARS: 1
4 wheels are better than 3 for stability.
that said, I used a harbor freight 3 wheeled cheapest possible option for my work, and as long as I wasn’t attempting to roll it around it was suitable for the job. (subaru EJ engines though)
"SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie" (sidewaysondirt)
01/20/2017 at 09:51, STARS: 1
I don’t usually recommend going to Harbor Freight, but stands are the kind of thing they’re perfect for. Their four wheel stand is cheap and more than capable. Can’t say anything about their hoists.
"LongbowMkII" (longbowmkii)
01/20/2017 at 10:00, STARS: 2
With hoists/cranes. Don’t overlook how you attach the engine. Nearly lost a foot to a Renault AxA when the bracket broke.
"kanadanmajava1" (kanadanmajava1)
01/20/2017 at 10:10, STARS: 0
I have this kind of thing in my garage. It’s probably pretty good for inline 4s or V8s, but long engine engines will wobble a lot on it. I have an Atlas LL8 currently dangling from it and it looks a bit scary. An LL8 is extremely large for an 4.2 litre engine.
"crowmolly" (crowmolly)
01/20/2017 at 10:26, STARS: 1
The attachment bolts, too (as in the ones you use to connect the engine to the stand). Some engines are heavy enough to bend poor quality bolts.
"AMGtech - now with more recalls!" (amgtech)
01/20/2017 at 10:26, STARS: 2
4 wheels. If the engine requires any work to the back side (bellhousing and rear main area) find one that leaves enough space there. Last but not least, make sure it’s narrow enough to fit between the legs of your engine hoist. Getting the engine out and discovering that your hoist and stand aren’t compatible enough to get anywhere near each other is the worst.
This is my favorite stand because it leaves a ton of space at the back of the engine, has a geared head, and can be mounted to a bajillion different engines in a bajillion different configurations. As pictured, both verticals are used and it’s mounted to the sides of an engine. The left vertical is removable so the main vertical can be used conventionally on the back of an engine. But you can clearly see how much space the mounting arms give you. Downside is that it is very expensive.
I assume you have a hoist already, but if you don’t I recommend avoiding the harbor freight one. It works, but its casters suck and its legs are too narrow to fit a harbor freight stand unless they’re fully extended which reduces weight capacity and stability.
Load levelers are also very useful. They allow you to tilt the engine at will as you’re removing/installing it. This summit racing one works well and is cheap enough.
"SantaRita" (SantaRita)
01/20/2017 at 10:36, STARS: 0
don’t screw around on 20$ difference in price.
harbor freight stand is more than enough if you don’t get their lowest entry model with three legs thats only 750lb rated isnt stable enough.
the three leg one will fall over. Ask my shins about it.
at least get the 1000lb rated one so it has some left-right stability. i.e. ONLY THE FOUR LEG ONE.
i also have their shop crane/engine hoist. works great but the boom length is short so measure or get the next step up. also...you will do yourself a huge favor getting a load leveler... especially if you’re working alone.
"Needmoargarage" (needmoargarage)
01/20/2017 at 10:40, STARS: 2
I’ll probably take some flak for this, but I recommend the 1000 lb harbor freight stand. Only 59.99 and you can get a 20% coupon off. I’d highly recommend changing the hardware however for some good grade 8 bolts so plan on spending $20 on those. Also the handle for flipping the engine over is short so it requires some effort but you can use a jack handle, steel rod, cheater bar, etc. to fix that.
My stand has held everything from small aluminum Subaru engines to large displacement iron block V8s with no problems whatsoever.
"osucycler" (osucycler)
01/20/2017 at 10:42, STARS: 1
Hit up your local craigslist. I spent a couple of weeks looking until I found a mid quality hoist with a lever for not much money at all. Check and make sure the cylinder doesn’t leak (although they can be rebuilt) and go to town.
On the stand I echo good quality bolts and make sure they are long enough and the correct thread pitch before your engine is in the air and awaiting be bolted up to the stand.
"Alfalfa" (alfalfa-romeo)
01/20/2017 at 10:51, STARS: 0
Actually, you’re not the only one who’s recommended HF. I guess it’s one of the things they’re decent at.
"Needmoargarage" (needmoargarage)
01/20/2017 at 11:02, STARS: 1
I know it can be done, but it is pretty hard to mess up basic steel with limited moving parts.
"Die-Trying" (die-trying)
01/20/2017 at 13:43, STARS: 0
harbor freight are okay. but things to look for in general, are a nice wide set of feet, to keep the engine stable while you rotisserie it. also make sure that there is enough space between the mounts for the head, and the back of the block, so that you can turn the whole engine with the flexplate/ flywheel still attached(or spun with the starter). you can always put spacers in there, but it is nice if they are wide enough from the get go. see if the stand folds up for not in use storage. big thing for some guys with small work spaces. mine always have some sort of motor on them........
"crowmolly" (crowmolly)
01/20/2017 at 13:47, STARS: 0
The casters are the only part I’d be a bit wary about. If the engine is not super heavy and you won’t be rolling it that much then NBD.
"Needmoargarage" (needmoargarage)
01/20/2017 at 13:58, STARS: 0
I did worry about that too. The casters were fine for me...had no trouble rolling around a complete iron 4.6L Ford engine on a rough and cracked cement floor. I’ve always planned on just replacing the castors if one fails or I can’t roll something around easy enough.