by "Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
Published 01/04/2017 at 21:15
by "Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
Published 01/04/2017 at 21:15
Tags: 2017 is going to be the best year ever
; tercel
; fuck you harold
; thanks again harold
STARS: 1
After sitting for about a week, she fired right up even in some-teen degree weather! So that’s the good news. Followed by un-good news...
!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!
The idling problem has returned, but the situation has overall improved. When the car is warmed up (like say, after driving it to the park and leaving after an hour like I did tonight), it idles way too low at 450 rpm, BUT it does not stall anymore. Doesn’t even shudder really. On cold starts, it idles at 1000 rpm for most if not all of the drive.
So it may be that the carb is flooding, or it could still be any of them other many possible culprits you’ve all suggested to me previously. I suppose I could readjust the carb again to compensate for this in the meantime, but at least now it’s actually not a huge pain in the ass to drive. Stalling at every stop or offramp was quite inconvenient before.
Back to the drawing board... after it warms up a little.
"pip bip - choose Corrour" (hhgttg69)
01/04/2017 at 21:29, STARS: 0
Have you changed the spark plugs?
"Wacko" (wacko--)
01/04/2017 at 21:31, STARS: 0
Well we all know the only solution is a LSX swap.
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
01/04/2017 at 21:33, STARS: 0
Nuh uh.
"unclevanos (Ovaltine Jenkins)" (unclevanos)
01/04/2017 at 22:06, STARS: 0
This is the carburetor that kids like.
"Spaceball-Two" (spaceball-two)
01/04/2017 at 22:41, STARS: 0
Did you ever check the sending unit or if the tank has some sediment?
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
01/04/2017 at 22:55, STARS: 0
2) not yet D:
1) how do I check the sending unit on this vehicle? On this model it’s out there in the open, and I also have a spare in the garage, but I don’t know what to really test other than swapping it out...
"Spaceball-Two" (spaceball-two)
01/05/2017 at 09:58, STARS: 0
That sounds like you should do that after all other options are ruled out.
"Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
01/05/2017 at 17:38, STARS: 0
So how long have you had this Toyota problem? Seriously, though: I own an ‘89 Camry and a ‘91 Corolla and these are simply the best cars I’ve ever owned. Hands down, no comparison. In fact, I owned a ‘99 Camry and sold it to buy the ‘89. Golden Age of Toyota.
"jminer" (jminer)
01/05/2017 at 18:13, STARS: 0
I’m not sure about old toyotas, but most american carburated vehicles of the 80's had a sensor/solenoid that controlled the cold and warm idle speed. It seems like yours might need adjusting or replacement.
One thing I did on an old Ford where it was screwy was to disconnect the unit and set the cold idle to 850 rpm so it did fine both while cold and warm.
"SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie" (sidewaysondirt)
01/06/2017 at 10:28, STARS: 0
My first thought is vacuum leak followed by coolant temperature sensors, followed by TPS (if the carb’d Tercel has one), then the idle air control.
"SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie" (sidewaysondirt)
01/06/2017 at 10:29, STARS: 0
They go bad on 80s Toyotas around now. I had a similar problem in my AW11 and that solved it.
"SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie" (sidewaysondirt)
01/06/2017 at 10:30, STARS: 0
These are pretty common old-Toyota problems, especially in A engines it seems. It’s not the car’s fault, it’s just 30 years old. Probably a vacuum leak or a bunk temperature sensor or TPS judging by my similar issues in the past with 4AGEs.
"Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
01/06/2017 at 14:58, STARS: 0
See reply below:
http://oppositelock.kinja.com/these-are-pretty-common-old-toyota-problems-it-s-not-t-1790845428